The marker on the other side of the road marks the halfway point from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela. 400 kilometres away in each direction.

Last night Encarnita and I were now situated in Calzadillas de la Cueza, a small village on the plains of Palencia, la Tierra de los Campos. We followed a straight road for 17 kilometres that was devoid of towns and houses. The occasional farm building and irrigation equipment beside the track was all that revealed the human touch.

Yesterday we reached our destination just before the rains came. Today the weather held, and we had a beautiful walk along back farm roads. The land is slightly more undulating than it was yesterday, and the wheat is further along in its annual progress. Away off to the north we can see the line of the Cantabrian Mountains, which we will meet later in our journey.

Tonight we have the only private room in a small albergue with a beautiful patio and, the young woman who runs it promises me, has an excellent kitchen.