Leon is a jewel of a city.


I learn more about the Basilica of San Isidoro each time I visit it. It is not just the frescoes. It has been central to the history of Leon and of Spain for many centuries. Its library houses a series of tenth and twelfth century Bibles, the earliest in visigothic script, produced by the mozarabes, Christians living under the tolerant hand of the Moorish rulers.




One goes back and back again to the cathedral, to catch the play of the changing light through the stained glass windows. The vaults of its ceilings reach up to extraordinary heights.



Encarnita went to mass a second time on Sunday. She had not realized that the large church that forms part of the Hostal had a Sunday afternoon service.





Hostal San Marcos








Today, Monday, we had to leave. Sending ahead by post some literature we had collected en route in an effort to keep the weight in our packs down, and recharging our cell phone at an ATM, we left Leon. Exiting the city is a drearier process than I remembered. When Bill and I did the Camino it was fall, and we were most days underway an hour before it became light. Perhaps that is why my memory is not so jaded.

We followed close to the highway that connects Leon with Astorga, until we reached the town of Villadongas de Paramo, where we are now. The weather has been most favourable: sunny blue sky with some clouds, little wind and a coolish temperature. Great for walking.

Tomorrow we will go to Hospital de Orbigo, site of a wonderful story from the days of knights and chivalry. The day after we will be in Astorga.