From Burgo Ranero we had another day´s walk across the Tierra de Campos (equivalent to the "prairies") to Mansilla de las Mulas. We took advantage of the late afternoon to have a taxi drive us out to the church of San Miguel de la Escalada. It was built in the eleventh or twelfth century immediately after the Christian king retook the territory from the Moors. The local people were quickly converted back to Christianity, but their artisans and workmen knew only moorish construction designs and techniques. As a result the church is completely moorish in style, horseshoe arches and all.
Today we left the plains and arrived in the city of Leon. This cathedral always exerts a greater presence in reality than it does in one´s memory. The stained glass high in the vaults of this masterpiece of gothic architecture is breathtaking. I couldn´t wait for tomorrow, and returned to the cathedral as soon as we had checked in to the Hostal San Marcos.
Tomorrow morning we will visit the romanesque Basilica of San Isidoro with its very old but well preserved frescoes. Tonight and tomorrow night we stay in the Hostal of San Marcos, one of the "must see" visits for any tourist in this region. Its entry facade, its lobbies and layout, its cloister and church are memorable. The meal in its dining room was exquisite. A definite high-light for the pilgrim.
Saturday, May 16, 2009
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