Are Roland and Ferragut legend or history? Fiction or fact? Did the brave Christian knight, strong supporter of Charlemagne, fight and defeat the Moorish giant? This capital, forming part of the Palace of the Kings of Navarre records the struggle, but doesn’t answer the question.
Irache provides two important stopping points on the Camino. A monastery whose dwindling monastic population will soon be replaced by the staff and guests of a parador, and the twin fountains offered by the bodega to pilgrims, one dispensing water, the other other wine.
Encarnita soon found herself comfortable identifying the trail markings and leading the way. Whenever there was doubt, a clear sign would appear.
Arcos had its own version of the Running of the Bulls on the day we arrived. It would appear that the bulls were victorious over the timid town inhabitants this Saturday evening.
No matter how big or how small the church, decorations were grandiose and rich. The retablo at Arcos was no exception, and the sculpture of Santa Maria de los Arcos was typical of the exquisite detail to be found within these enormous baroque alters. Arcos was an important town on the pilgrims route, a centre for financial transactions, toll collection and currency exchange. Perhaps these endeavours funded the church?
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