Stage Three - Castilla-Leon - Part 2

San Juan de Ortega built road and bridges, as did his mentor Santo Domingo de la Calzado. Evidently never very popular with the ecclesiastical hierarchy, he finished his days in a hermitage which is now named after him. This beautiful Romanesque sepulchre is his final resting place. The church is famous for the way in which the last rays of the sun at sunset on the two equinoxes each year illuminate a single stone capital that tells the full story of the annunciation and birth of Christ.




After a couple of tries, Encarnita decided that in general she preferred private accommodation to group sleep in a community hostal. We will discuss this issue further before we set off on next year’s journey. She was heard to comment that she thought this one in the town of Agés was tolerable. It helped that the lady in charge came from the Andalucian town of Tarifa, where Encarnita’s grandfather had been borne, and recognized his name.



On top of Matagrande (literally translated as “big killer”) we encountered a shepherd who was picking up several lambs that had been borne that evening. He was also encouraging the formation of a series of concentric circles by having each pilgrim who passed add a stone or two. I cannot image what theories archeologists ten centuries from now might ascribe to this uncommon ruin.


At this point our pilgrimage for 2008 closes. We reached Burgos, having walked around the airport and along the five kilometres of industrial activity that mark the eastern end of this beautiful city. As planned we rented a car to leave the Camino and drive fifty kilometres south to the medieval town of Santo Domingo de Silos, where the monks still perform the church rites to the sound of Gregorian chant. Our hotel was a small renaissance palace. The monastery is famous for, in addition to its music, an exquisite cloister whose colonnade is topped by detailed and varied capitals.



After an evening in Santo Domingo and a visit to Covarrubias, we returned to Burgos. Instead of continuing our pilgrimage as planned, however, we decided to end it for this year. Encarnita had a bad cold and the weather forecasts promised continuing rain and cold. We would pick up the Camino next year at Burgos, rather than at Sahagún, as originally planned.

Stage Three - Castilla-Leon - Part 1

The autonomous region of Castilla-Leon took a forceful approach to keeping pilgrims informed as to where they were and what they could expect. This one marked the border between La Rioja, which were exiting, and Castilla-Leon, where we would be until we reached the far side of Leon, sometime next year.

The Rio Reláchigo, flowing between Redecilla del Camino and Castildelgado, must never become grand enough to merit a full size bridge. With all the rain that had falled and would fall for the next week, I wonder if the pilgrims coming in ten days time would have as easy a time crossing?

Belorado is a town whose history goes well back before the pilgrims came. An important urbanization before the time of Christ, the axis of the town runs north to south, following the Roman road, as opposed to the typical east-west orientation of a town on the Camino. Entering Belorado one cames to the Church of Santa Maria. While the building itself seemed to be in some state of disrepair, the storks found it to be comfortable.

Encarnita found a gathering of small stones. There were enough to make a medium sized heart, but there appeared to be no order to them. Had Bryan been there and left his trademark, which had subsequently been disturbed? Whether creating or rearranging, Encarnita left them in order.

Stage Two - La Rioja - Part 4

As we neared the western extremities of La Rioja, the landscape became flatter and vines gave way to wheat. Our path stretched far out ahead, and we settled into a rhythm. Knowing that we had another hour to walk before the landscape would change, we turned inward into our thoughts, outward to enjoy the flowers, the sounds of the birds, the undulations of the fields.

Santo Domingo de la Calzada was responsible for preparing roads, raising bridges and building hospitals for the pilgrims. The cathedral named after him rises up high and can be seen for some time as one walks toward the town. If you are interested, you should ask me why it has been the cathedral’s tradition to keep two live roosters in a cage high in the church to one side of the main alter. And it is not to wake up the parishioners.

It was Corpus Christi the day after we reached Santo Domingo. In advance of taking the host out of the cathedral and carrying it about the streets of the old town, the residents lay a floral carpet over which the procession will pass. It didn’t take long for Encarnita to enter into the spirit of the morning. Soon she was giving detailed instructions to the townspeople as to how the carpet could best be arranged.

This thirteen century baptismal font in the Church of the Virgen of the Street is carved from a single block of stone.

Stage Two - La Rioja - Part 3

Poppies are for Encarnita. She wanted one captured up close, so her paintings would be true to life.

San Millán de Cogolla is recognized as the birthplace of the castillian language. The very first written evidence of the romance language that was evolving from Latin through the Visigoths is to be found in the margins of books written in Latin located in this monastery. Latin text with marginal notes written in the language spoken in the middle ages.



While there remains a cadre of monks in the monastery, a major section has been converted into a high quality hotel, with décor drawn from centuries back and offering an excellent dining room. Encarnita requested a plate of “Iberian ham”. It was almost more than she could handle.

Stage Two - La Rioja - Part 2

From Sotés we followed rural roads northwest in the direction of Nájera. Very quickly we rejoined the Camino at the town of Ventosa. The small restaurant, Meson San Anton, run with love and taste by a young woman from Logroño whose husband worked in the city, so appealed to Encarnita that we decided to have lunch, even though we had scarcely finished breakfast. Encarnita was finding the Camino a rewarding experience: she could eat as much as she wanted and still lose weight.









The Monastery of Santa María la Real in Nájera is one of the architectural highlights on this stretch of the Camino. The monastery, founded by King Garcia IV around the eleventh century, when he and his hunting falcon stumbled on a cave that contained an image of the Virgin illuminated by a lamp, has been handed down over the centuries from one monastic order to another. Its two story cloister with the lace-like stonework encased in the arches is a marvel, and the detail of the Romanesque stone carvings a cheerful delight. While the church today may be challenged to find sufficient numbers of monks and nuns to staff its facilities, there appears to be no shortage of storks.

Shortly after Nájera we again detoured to the south, to visit the convent at Cañas and the monastery at San Millán de Cogolla. The Cañas convent rises up in the middle of a plain that stretches out in every direction. Again the stonework is delicate beyond belief, but it is the tomb of Doña Urraca in the chapter house that catches one’s attention. Doña Urraca, daughter of the convent’s founding family, was its first abbess. It is fitting that she have this beautiful stone sepulchre, carried on the shoulders of a procession of nuns, nobles and saints. It is also in keeping with the Romanesque sense of humour that the last nun in the procession be caught flirting with a monk.

We continued to find agreeable places to spend the night. This single star hostal had recently finished rooms in pinewood and offered a good kitchen. The fourth glass belongs to me, the picture-taker.

Stage Two - La Rioja - Part 1

Logroño, capital of the autonomous community of La Rioja, has always served as an important station on the pilgrims route to Santiago de Compostela. Outside the Church of Santiago is the Pilgrims Fountain, from which those heading to Santiago have drunk for centuries. Shortly after this picture was taken we passed through the gate in the old city walls and were on our way to Burgos, the next major stop.


We had become used to the grandiose, gilded retablos standing over church alters. At the Church of Asunción in Navarrete the single retablo covering all three naves took our breath away. The baroque detail was magnificent and I felt we had to have the image of San Roque, the patron saint of the pilgrim, accompany us as we proceeded.



On the way to Nájera we engaged in a small detour that took us a couple of kilometres south of today’s Camino to Sotés. Our reason: a casa rural that appeared very attractive on the internet. Upon arrival we found the climb worthwhile: we would be staying in a renaissance palace with rooms decorated to fit a time long before our century.

Stage One - Reprise of Pamplona to Logroño - Part 3

Encarnita found yet another heart along the way. These heart-shaped configurations of small stones, often surrounding a flower or piece of ribbon, were the handiwork of Brian, the reikei healer I mentioned in an earlier posting. He was obviously ahead of us, as we were reminded every time we encountered another of his stone hearts.

Another Camino marker. Did the boot signal a disheartened pilgrim who abandoned the route, or did it indicate nothing more than a change in footgear?

The octagonal chapel at Torres del Rio was not the first one we had encountered. The conversation with the photographer at Eunate was recorded in our journal of Camino moments; at Torres it was the a capella singing. The photographer at Eunate was testing out the lighting effects of the chapel as he was scheduled to record the wedding of a cousin. This cousin had met his fiancée on the Camino. The singers were part of a small choir from a northern city and offered an Ave Maria, followed by a renaissance piece when requested by Encarnita.

The entry into Logroño passes over a hill that was once the site of Celtic community. Before one can see modern day Logroño, however, one comes to the stand of Felisia. For fifty years Felisia offered beverages to passing pilgrims. She even had her own stamp for the pilgrims passports. When she died six years ago, her daughters took over the responsibility. They had no difficulty knowing when pilgrims were passing by, as each one was announced by their dogs.

Logroño has interesting churches as well as excellent wine. At the Church of Santiago, where we attended the pilgrims mass, Saint James the Moorslayer was in full fight over the portal, encouraging us on our way.

Stage One - Reprise of Pamplona to Logroño - Part 2

Are Roland and Ferragut legend or history? Fiction or fact? Did the brave Christian knight, strong supporter of Charlemagne, fight and defeat the Moorish giant? This capital, forming part of the Palace of the Kings of Navarre records the struggle, but doesn’t answer the question.

Irache provides two important stopping points on the Camino. A monastery whose dwindling monastic population will soon be replaced by the staff and guests of a parador, and the twin fountains offered by the bodega to pilgrims, one dispensing water, the other other wine.

Encarnita soon found herself comfortable identifying the trail markings and leading the way. Whenever there was doubt, a clear sign would appear.

Arcos had its own version of the Running of the Bulls on the day we arrived. It would appear that the bulls were victorious over the timid town inhabitants this Saturday evening.

No matter how big or how small the church, decorations were grandiose and rich. The retablo at Arcos was no exception, and the sculpture of Santa Maria de los Arcos was typical of the exquisite detail to be found within these enormous baroque alters. Arcos was an important town on the pilgrims route, a centre for financial transactions, toll collection and currency exchange. Perhaps these endeavours funded the church?

Stage One - Reprise of Pamplona to Logroño - Part 1

Digital cameras lead to an enormous, growing volume of pictures. Fortunately they all come in sequence and going through them enables one to replay each day on the Camino, one after the other.

On Tuesday morning, May 13th we set out from Cizur Menor, just to the west of Pamplona. Our objective for the day was to climb the Cuesta del Perdon (the Hill of Forgiveness) and descend on the far side to Puente Reina. At the crest we could see for a distance of at least two days walk both to the east and to the west. We were also able to rest in the company of steel pilgrims, who were going our way.

The next day at Puente Reina we were given a personal tour of the Church of Santiago el Mayor by a young priest, who had just finished lecturing a group of thoroughly disinterested young Spanish teenagers who were on a school tour of the town. Javier Resano, our guide, took us through the church, through its treasury and into the cloister where few people ventured. A vessel worked in Mexican silver in the sixteenth century and presented to the church by one of the returning Conquistadores was the pride of the collection.

In Mañeru the auroros were at work. This tradition welcomes the day of San Isidore of the Labradores (labradores are workers in the fields) by having groups of workers singing in different quarters of the town.

I may already have posted the picture of this Roman bridge. On the Camino we were walking over the remains of several civilizations, not just the memories of Christian pilgrims. Arab, Jewish, Visigoth, Roman, Celt. We approached this bridge along a road whose stones were laid down by the Romans, who had also built the bridge.

The joys of the Camino include the many church cloisters encountered by the pilgrim. In Estella this small oasis, sheltered by the monumental Church of San Pedro de la Rua, insulated one from the bustle of the town and the demands of the Camino.